Our two weeks spent in Brazil started off as a plan to stay
one night at the Iguassu Bikers Hostel (Foz do Iguassu) to do an oil
change. It was at this hostel that we
met Rod and Adriano, the very friendly and helpful hosts who convinced us to
stay for the Horizons Unlimited Meeting planned for the coming weekend. Horizons Unlimited is a very helpful webpage
that connects fellow travellers and provides a forum to both share information
and ask for advice/help. The prospect of
meeting fellow overlanders and to be a part of the Brazil 2014 meeting meant
that we stayed in Foz do Iguazu another 5 days.
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A trip to one of the largest hydroplants in the world Itaipu dam organised by Rod |
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Loads of bikes |
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72kgs of meat brazilian style !! oh yes !! |
The weekend was fantastic!! We were inspired further by the
stories we heard of South American travels as well as further afield and loved
meeting local bikers – some of which do not necessarily understand our choice
of travelling. However we were also jealous
of the bigger machines parked around us and this got us thinking of our KLR650’s
in England! Thus the plans have shifted a little…Instead of travelling with our
Honda 125 XRs up to Peru, we are going to rather spend more time in Paraguay,
Bolivia and see more of Argentina on our way back to Santiago to sell these
bikes. Then we are going to see about shipping/flying our KLR650s into Peru to
then venture further north and into North America! Exciting times ahead J
During the weekend we found out that our friends from South
Africa, Deborah and Lee, were in Florianopolis - only about 1000kms - and they invited us to come visit them. Excited to see them, the Atlantic Ocean, some
amazing landscape seen in pictures at the Hostel, we headed out early in the
week. On the way to Florianopolis we
decided to take the more scenic route through countryside and into the Serra
Catarinense escarpment. The first day
out on the road we couldn’t believe our luck when a passing motorbike invited
us to stay the night at his house. Adriano and his friends were very friendly
and took us on a tour of their town all the while trying to chat to us with our
broken Spanish and occasionally with the help of Google Translate!
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Adriano our friendly host for a night |
The next day we passed another hydroelectric dam and more agricultural
fields and eventually landed up on one of the main roads down to the
coast. The number of trucks was
ridiculous and we decided to try another route to avoid them, however that road
as it turned out was even busier! It was
on this route that we spotted a good spot to camp -behind the local museum and
next to the cemetery. We luckily just
made it there in time to put up a shelter and hide under it from the passing
storm! To say these summer storms consist
of downpours is an understatement…
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Taking cover from the down pour |
We continued along the BR282 towards the coast battling with
the trucks along the way, and were relieved when we could turn off into the Serra
Catarinense. Unfortunately, mountain
ranges and hot weather means heavy clouds, and before long we were moving on
through the rain. We climbed up to Sao
Joaquim and decided our feet were tired of swimming in a pool of water and
found a Pousada to spend the night. The
electric storm continued through the night and into the morning, and we awoke
to another torrential downpour. This was
quite a pity as we planned to do the Serra Rio do Rastro pass which is meant to
have fantastic views down to the coast.
We were quite lucky when we got there though as the clouds cleared for a
moment to show us the amazing switchback road below. The rainfall and mist actually made it look
so much more beautiful, and as we descended the passthe waterfalls and gushing
water next to the road added to the experience.
Moving on through small towns, and the occasional bigger
ones we arrived on the main coastal freeway and headed north towards
Florianopolis. Finally a glimpse of the Atlantic
Ocean…! En route we were very pleased to be on motorbikes because we were able
to weave in and around the traffic jam about 10km long! They are in the process
of building a new bridge over the laguna and this has meant a massive backlog
of trucks and cars!
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View when we arrived |
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Starting to clear |
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And there you have it ! |
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Serra Do Rio Do Rastro |
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Decorations ! |
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One of the many buffet livres along the road, yummi !!! |
We arrived on the island of Florianopolis at what seemed
like peak hour traffic, luckily this flowed pretty smoothly and we managed to navigate
our way to the north of the island to meet up with Deborah and Lee. Having to kill about 30 min before we met
them, we went to Praia do Forte for a sundowner. We couldn’t believe our welcome at Deborah
and Lee’s as the door opened and out wafted the smell of a delicious chicken curry
and a Mrs Balls chutney bottle sitting on the table…we had arrived in
heaven! This was the first step to
falling in love with island living!
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Florianopolis |
The next week was a myriad of relaxing beach days nibbling
on acai gelo (frozen Amazonian fruit smoothies) asado haloumi (braai’d cheese),
day trips around the unexpectedly hilly island with 42 beautiful beaches,
experiencing different levels of carnival partying with live music and dancers,
chilling in the apartment we were graciously given to stay in and spending time
with Deborah and Lee despite them being so busy over the carnival period! We were spoilt to say the least, and it was
difficult to leave the beautiful island.
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Street carnavales |
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The tradition is for men to dress up as girls and they take it very seriously !! |
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What would brazil be without a thong shot on the beach !! |
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Portable braais that they cook the haloumi cheese on |
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Praia Mole |
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Teen and Layla |
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South african braai brasilian style ! courtesy of Lee |
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Teen and Alex |
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Add caption |
We thought we had timed it perfectly to miss the rain,
however heading back to Foz, we were caught out in a number of downpours
again. Wanting to explore more of the Serra
Catarinense, we headed for the Corvo Branco pass and on to the campsite in Urubuci.
The universe had different plans though, and we found ourselves at the bottom
of the pass being warned that it would be impossible to take the motorbikes up
due to the amount of mud. As the rain
continued to fall we eventually headed the warnings after seeing a bakkie and
truck stuck in thick mud, and the condition of our tyres after only 10m along
the ‘good’ section of the road. Unfortunately
we hadn’t drawn money and had anticipated to be camping in the bigger town of
Urubici. Wild camping was not an option
and we found ourselves at a Pousada hoping they would accept credit card. Nope, all we had was 30 reals on us (R120)
and the room was 100 Reals. Oh dear…but
after a few minutes the lady came out and told us we could stay in a room in
her house for the night but there would be no dinner or breakfast for us. Absolutely no problem! We just needed to get
out of the rain! The smell of freshly made chocolate brownie (made by her 3
teenage children) poured out of the family home, and it was easy to relax and
attempt to talk to the family. In true
Brazilian hospitality style, we were invited for a family dinner around the kitchen
table, and after a good nights sleep were given breakfast in the morning! We couldn’t
thank her and her family enough for helping us out!
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Another down pour |
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mud and clay |
The sun was bright the next morning and we decided to see if
the pass had dried up a little for us to travel the way we wanted to. Luck was on our side, and the amazingly beautiful
drive up was breath-taking and thankfully the mud was relatively dry! We
continued to a few other sights suggested in the area, and loved the off road
riding through the countryside. Back on
the BR282 we realised how travelling on a Sunday can make a big difference as
there were nowhere near as many trucks as before! We pushed on and as the sun
started to set we looked for somewhere to camp.
It was hard to find a place off the main road that would be sheltered
enough to wild camp, so we landed up at a place called Pica –Pau Verde. The owner was such a character and we had a
fantastic evening chatting to him around the dinner table in his ‘rodeo house’ enjoying
the “colonial” (as he put it) wines, Parma ham and salame. He definitely has
one of the best ‘man-caves’ or wine cellars we have seen and we wish we had got
a picture of it! Drying salame, homemade cachaca (cane liquor), wines from all
over as well as his own wine making equipment, horse riding equipment…just
never ending gadget things!
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Serra Do Corvo Branco |
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Morro De Igreja Pedra Furada |
The next morning breakfast was another treat, after which we
jumped onto their quad bikes and were taken to the “ecological sanctuary” on
the property where he recently had a ceremony to bless the place. Then
to the museum of the farm from when his father used work the land to see some
blasts from the past equipment.
Back onto the BR282 to Soa Migual D’Oeste we were happy that
again there were not too many trucks on the road making it easy to navigate
around the many potholes and lumps and bumps made from the trucks. Then we were hit with another downpour and
poor visibility, coupled with water filled potholes made the ride rather
interesting.
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Teen, Jo and Fracisco |
We decided to stay in town for the night and left pretty early the next morning. This drive was not great as the trucks were out in full force on a single laned road with lots of roadworks with stop/gos and stretches of ruined tar. We were relieved to hit the last 100km to Foz on a double lane highway and back to the bikers hostel. Today we gave the bikes some tlc , oil change and clean up and stocked up for the next leg of the adventure. Tomorrow off to Paraguay.